Feliz Navidad

12-18-07

There was a Christmas party here yesterday, just for the family I’m staying with (which still means a LOT of people).

The night before the party several of Dona Alicias children, and their small kids, slept over, so the morning was crazyness even early. I helped out a little with cooking and then with the two girls (Daniela is older and kinda manipulative — she thinks I must be rich and the first thing she said to me is “do you have a cell phone? Do you have a camara? Do you have treats to give us?”, but she talks so I can understad her and accepts my roken spanish, both of which are invaluable to me right now; Brenda is 4 with huge staring eyes and tons of curly hair, when she first got there those big eyes followed me anywhere I went. She also has that wonderful smell that all little girls seem to have… kinda musty but sweet… everytime she allowed me to pick her up). We went downto the river to catch crabs. That was by far the most comprehensible and fun part of my day.

By the time we got back from the river people were beginning to arrive, so I was meeting and saying a few words to everyone, but of course they’d rather talk and laugh with family than try to understand gringa-talk. I was trying to feel fiercely proud that I was handling myself alright, despite the shyness and social awkwardness that had my relatives and college friends keeping me away from social gatherings even in english… but by mid afternoon I was complete overwhelmed.

Luckily about the time I couldn’t take it any longer feeling awkward and not understanding what’s going on, the other awkward looking guy took out a guitar and he and Manuel sang Costa Rican laments. They all sound the same to me, but they are beautiful and sad.

The food was of course amazing. About 10 different forms of cooking the pig that we had killed the day before, and all of them better thaany pig I’ve eaten in the states. Also salsa made with boiled green bananas, which I loved, and of course tortillas and rice.

The younger boys all began a game of tag, which then turned into a game of… the youngest boy carried a stick and ran around whacking all the other boys as hard as he could with it…? It was grown-up encouraged too. Meanwhile Daniela heartlessly pulled the shells off the living crabs she’d caught and scraped their innards out with a fingernail to cook and eat with butter and garlic… and she didn’t offer me any either although neither did I ask.

Towards evening there was a Christmas song and skit of sorts, followed by a short sermon. Shortly afterwards most people were leaving and everyone else headed out to the troja (outbuilding?) for some fried pig, guaro (cheap rum), dancing, and general roudyness. I was still the definate outsider, but I appreciate that they let me at least physically be part of the celebration. And of course, I can dance, but Manuel was really the only guy gutsy enough to dance.

The next day was for rest and recuperation. By late afternoon it was just Dona Alicia and me here, ever so tranquil nd peaceful, watching the sun set and cars on the distant highway.